That is absolutely correct, but is sadly the case in a lot of fields. It doesn't mean that the practical results we see (AlphaFold, Imagenet Performance, NLP performance, Robotic control with RL) isn't amazing progress.
Luckily due to so many people using ML these days, what's useful vs. fluff gets sorted out over time.
It's a fair question. Is DeepMind famous for its amazingly smart toys because it's useful similarly-smart stuff is secret? Or public but boring? Or doesn't exist?
In theory it should be practical. The first generation has been adapted by other teams into excellent prediction servers that can be used now. The second gen is way more hush hush and has yet to be vetted, so we’ll have to see. I am watching for news of it eagerly!